 by Rex Cauldwell
INTRODUCTION
This may
sound like an exaggeration, but I believe the home inspector is
responsible for saving more lives and property than any other
tradesperson. Houses degrade from the day they are completed. And with
human nature the way it is, many people won't fix a problem with their
home unless they are forced to. Until the home inspection service came
into being, houses were typically bought and sold in “as is" condition.
This process continued from buyer to buyer until the house virtually fell
apart or a disaster occurred.
The
electrical system is a typical example. Owners of older houses have added
extra receptacles and appliance loads to the point that you can almost see
the smoke rising from the old ungrounded wiring and outdated, overloaded
fuse panels. Many owners simply live with the problem. Only when the house
is put up for sale does the electrical system get upgraded. In
recommending the upgrade, the inspector can honestly say that he or she
has possibly saved the house from burning down and perhaps taking some
lives with it. Many times things look so bad it amazes even the most
hardened of us. The inspector looks around the basement or crawl space,
shudders, and then slowly backs out hoping nothing happens until he or she
gets out of there.
Sometimes
the plumbing isn't much better. The inspector often finds that drain lines
are held together with duct tape and that water lines look like a
sprinkler system. I know one homeowner couple who allowed a leaky pipe to
drip onto the water heater for years, until it eventually ruined the
heater. When they finally installed a new water heater, rather than fixing
they leak, they moved the heater a foot over to the side and left the leak
alone. I'm sorry to say that such illogic is commonplace when it comes to
utilities.
Occasionally, houses are fixed up before they are sold, but these
are the exceptions, not the rule. Owners who decide to sell a house rarely
want to invest time and money in it because they usually won't get their
money back. And when they decide the problem must be fixed, they do it
themselves (although they may not quite understand the problem or how to
fix it) or hire a not-quite qualified nonprofessional to do it, which
creates other problems. This process isn't new: The old saying "let the
buyer beware" is just as appropriate now as it was when the Romans coined
it.
A typical
example would be homeowners who just found out that the hardboard
composite siding on their house was rotting away. Or perhaps the siding is
synthetic stucco and not only the siding but all the exterior walls are
deteriorating. Rather than fix the problem themselves and be out many
thousands of dollars, they would rather keep it quiet, sell the house, and
let the new owners take care of it. But with the advent of the home
inspection trade, many houses now get repaired before they're put on the
market, because the owners know the house will be inspected and don't want
the problems to hold up a sale. This gives the house a longer life
expectancy and the new buyers a safer house. All in all, the home
inspection profession has increased the quality of homes nationwide and
made them safer for us all.
Who needs
this book? Every home inspector who wants to be consistent and accurate in
his or her inspection. But I didn't write it just for inspectors. It's
also for every home seller who wants to know specifically what the
inspector is going to be looking for, for every home buyer who wants to
know specifically what to look for in the house he or she is buying, and
for every Realtor who wants to judge the quality and resalability of the
house he or she is getting ready to list.
Chapter 1
THE
INSPECTION PROCESS
The home
inspector's job is to provide a general, overall inspection of the
home-it's that simple. The inspector is someone who has a working
knowledge of many trades and can give an "overview" of the condition of
the home. An overview means that the inspector will be listing "areas of
concern"; if these areas of concern are considered significant, the owner
or buyer will be advised to contact a specialist in that area for expert
evaluation. For example, if an inspector suspects that a house sided with
synthetic stucco has moisture problems, he or she will recommend that
someone certified to evaluate this material be
consulted.
An
analogy would be a general medical practitioner finding something wrong
with a patient and then sending him or her to a specialist. The specialist
in our case would be a structural engineer, licensed electrician or
plumber, pest-control expert, well driller, HVAC technician, or similar
professional. Inspectors are the general practitioners-they do not compete
with the specialists, they work with them.
Anyone
who wants a home inspected has two choices: Spend a lot of money and bring
in experts in all the trades or spend significantly less money and bring
in one person who has a general knowledge of all. Most homeowners can ill
afford to bring in all those individual professional services. For a
certified structural engineer, master electrician, master plumber, and so
on to inspect a house would cost the homeowner well over $1,000 (a typical
home inspection costs about $300). And think of the headaches of trying to
get that many people to a house in a short period of time. It was from
this need to have a single person with a general knowledge of all the
trades that the home inspection profession was born.
Professional Courtesy
Cooperation with other trades is the hallmark of a good inspector.
Home inspectors should always cooperate with other professionals and
recommend specific trades (not specific companies or people) when they
think there is need. This way, you, as the inspector, will develop a good
relationship with other tradespeople because you'll generate work for them
rather than taking work away from them.
It's
important for the home inspector to be congenial and polite-not just to
the customer but to the other trades as well. (It's also advisable for the
inspector to have a close and amicable relationship with as many Realtors
as possible.) If you see something wrong, don't condemn it. For some, it's
human nature to look at something and then proudly proclaim that it is the
worst piece of construction they've ever seen, but try to keep your
opinions to yourself.
The home
inspector cannot "fail" a house-no one can do that, except perhaps a
structural engineer along with a state inspector. The work of the home
inspector is simply to list areas of concern to look for and list possible
problems, to observe and report. Something may fail a specific test done
by the home inspector, but it still just an area of concern for the owner
and buyer. Many times the problems should be fixed, but sometimes
there is no legal reason the owner has to fix them-other times legalities
are involved.
The
homeowner and buyer will have to agree on what is to be repaired and what
isn't. It's possible the sellers won't fix anything-they may simply tell
the buyer, "If you want the house, fix it yourself." On the other hand,
it's possible that the sellers are so desperate to sell the house that
they'll fix anything just to do so. When neither party can agree on who is
to pay for the repairs, I've even seen the Realtor pay just to allow the
sale to go through.
The
Rules of the Profession
Professional organizations such as the National Association of Home
Inspectors (NAHI) and the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) have
a Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice that the home inspector should
adhere to. In addition, local organizations (such as the California Real
Estate Inspectors) provide professional local guidance to inspectors in
their communities.
Both NAHI
and ASHI are very specific about what home inspectors should and should
not do. For example, the inspector should not disassemble any appliance or
equipment within the dwelling or even take the cover off a receptacle or
switch plate. The inspector's job is to visually inspect-not technically
evaluate to the point of disassembling the appliance. One exception to the
do-not-disassemble rule is the cover of a main electrical service panel or
subpanel. The cover will have to be removed to inspect the breakers ( or
fuses) and wiring within. And if the furnace has a burner cover, it may
also have to be removed.
Similarly, the inspector should not report on the life expectancy
of a component or system. Homebuyers sometimes assume that just because it
went through an inspection it cannot fail the next day and everything
comes with a warranty to last forever. It's up to the inspector to make
sure the buyer does not make those assumptions.
What
follows is a general list of what an inspector should not do, a
combined adaptation from the Standards of Practice of NAHI and ASHI and my
own system. Any deviation from NAHI and ASHI is of my creation and should
not be thought of as NAHI and ASHI policy. If you are a member of either
organization, you must follow their guidelines, which sometimes go into
much greater detail than those listed below and may even differ. In
addition, each locale will have its own list that applies to specific
problems that may exist in that area.
-
Do
not attempt to predict how long something will last. If you can do
that, you can add fortune telling to your list of skills. This includes
offering warranties or guarantees. However, certain products-such as
roof shingles, siding, and water heaters-do have projected life
expectancies, and you can pass that information along to the homeowners,
assuming they don't misinterpret it as a guarantee. When people ask me
the life expectancy of a water heater with a five-year warranty, I tell
them five years and one day.
-
Do
not explain why something doesn't work or how much it will cost to
repair. If it does not work, just say so; don't speculate on the
reason why or what it will cost to repair. I know that many inspectors
do this, but you risk making enemies of other tradespeople if you
underestimate the cost of the job. You are not the expert on repair;
they are-be kind, be quiet.
-
Do
not offer advice on the material that it takes to fix something.
Again, this should be left to the professional in that specific area. If
the floor joists are rotten, just say they're rotten. Don't start giving
the buyer a list of required materials to repair
them.
-
Do
not comment on the suitability of anything for any specific use or the
adequacy or efficiency of anything. Keep your opinions to yourself.
If, in your opinion, the overhead paddle fan is too small to adequately
circulate air, keep it to yourself. By criticizing, all you are doing is
creating problems. You don't want to get into a debate of opinions. And
you don't want to be overruled by an expert-even if you are
right.
-
Do
not say that something is a code violation unless you are certified in
that field. What is a code violation one year may not be the next.
Codes are constantly changing, and there's no way anyone, except an
expert in his or her specific field, can keep up with them. A specific
test is either an area of concern or not, depending on what your company
wants to call it.
-
Do
not comment on market value or marketability. There's nothing wrong
with saying how nice a house is-this is being polite and is in the realm
of general conversation. But never comment on market value or money or
even marketability. If a sale gets lost because you don't think the
price of the house is right, the Realtor will never use you
again.
-
Do
not comment on the advisability or inadvisability of purchase of the
property. Memorize the following: "I am not a real estate expert."
This is what you recite when asked to comment on the
property.
-
Do
not comment on any component or system that was not available to be
observed. For example, a house either has water pressure or it
doesn't. You have no idea why. It's possible that the pump isn't working
properly or that there is not enough water in the well. Similarly, do
not comment on underground items such as buried storage tanks. If you
cannot see it, you cannot comment on it-period. In my opinion, this rule
applies to septic tanks as well.
-
Do
not give verbal or written assurance of the presence or absence of
pests, such as wood organisms, rodents, or insects (beyond the obvious,
such as termite tracks). You can and should point out and log
obvious damage. However, a professional in that field will have to give
a complete examination if the owner wants a written guarantee. You may
say, "It appears that there is no damage" or "I don't see anything." The
accent here is on the word see. There may be insects and damage
you cannot see.
-
Do
not propose or do any work against any law or code-or do any work
requiring an occupational license that you do not have. Normally,
the inspector inspects and the tradespeople fix. In most places, it is
considered a conflict of interest to have the inspector do
both.
-
Do
not project the operating costs of components. You do not comment on
how much it costs to operate anything-in particular, the annual cost of
utilities.
-
Do
not do anything within the house or property that may be dangerous to
you, other persons, or the house and property. Always be wary when
you fire up and operate any system or component that is shut down or
otherwise inoperable. It may be turned off for a reason. It would be
nice to say that you should never start any system that has been shut
down, but many times the breakers are thrown in the building you're
inspecting and it will be up you to turn the breakers back on again. Be
especially wary in crawl spaces and flooded basements. Some inspection
organizations have height restrictions below which you shouldn't go into
a crawl space (for example, 3 ft.). If it doesn't look safe, it probably
isn't, so stay out.
-
Do
not operate any system or component that does not respond to normal
operating controls. You are not to troubleshoot the system or fix it
to make it operate.
-
Do
not disassemble switches and receptacles or any other electrical or
electronic component to determine why they do not work. Just write
it up that they do not work.
-
Do
not report on the quality of interior wall and floor finishes, such as
carpeting, paint, wallpaper, varnish, and other finish
treatments.
Creating a System of Inspection
The
single most important thing a home inspector can do upon entering the
trade is to create a methodical system of inspection. Experienced
inspectors already have their own system-one they have developed from
years of working in the trade, a set pattern that they have either created
or just fallen into. This set pattern has a purpose other than the
outgrowth of habit. A set pattern ensures that the inspector won't forget
part of the inspection or be wasting time by constantly going from the
outside to the inside or from basement to attic. Only a set, established
procedure will ensure the inspector of a smooth, fast inspection that
covers all the bases.
I
normally inspect the outside first, and I start looking the minute I pull
up to the driveway. As I approach the house, I normally take in the grade
surrounding the house to see if there's any obvious problem. The utility
is another check my eyes take in at about the same time. I immediately
check off whether the service entrance is aerial or buried, and then
monitor the grade as I walk the utility power line from house to pole. At
the house, I inspect the grounding system, service entrance, and meter
base. With this done, I walk around the house, again checking the grade as
well as the driveway and sidewalk, but paying particular attention to the
siding and roof. After that comes the inspection of the structural system
(the foundation), deck, columns, and crawl space. If there's a garage,
I'll inspect that before I go inside the house.
Once the
exterior inspection is done, I move inside to check the service panel and
the water supply. After that, it's on to the heating and cooling system.
This will most likely take me into the basement, which entails a lot of
plumbing and electrical checks if the basement is unfinished. Following
that, I go to the kitchen and bath and then the appliances. As I walk
through the house, I make a quick inspection of all the rooms, hallways,
and staircases, checking for electrical outlets; lighting; and the
condition of doors, windows, walls, floors, and ceilings. The final check
is the attic.
I'm not
suggesting that this is the only way to inspect a house, but it's the
system that works for me. Bear in mind that a home inspection is not
necessarily a strictly linear process; it's unlikely, for example, that
you'll inspect all the siding, all the roof surfaces, and all the grading
in separate steps. There's a good deal of overlap from one to another as
you walk around the house, and you never know what you'll find that will
pull you away from your usual order of inspection.
For the
purposes of this book, I have grouped related subjects that logically go
together in the same chapter-even though they may not be inspected
sequentially. For example, the chapter on the electrical service
inspection includes the service entrance ( one of the first things I
check) and the service panel (something I typically don't check until I go
inside). Similarly, all the information on inspecting doors and windows is
grouped together, even though I check the exterior of doors and windows at
a different time from when I inspect the interior.
Tools
of the Trade
Knowledge
and tools go hand in hand. If you're going to be a home inspector, it's
important to act like one and invest in the proper tools. That said, you
really don't need a lot of tools to get started. I've seen sets of
inspection tools advertised for the beginning inspector, but I don't
recommend you rush out and buy one. Included in the sets are some tools
you'll probably never use (because inspection procedures and the tools
required are not always exactly the same in all parts of the country),
whereas other tools that you need will be missing.
Basic
tools
The basic
tools you need to inspect a house are the same tools you'd find in any
carpenter's toolbox: screwdrivers, pliers, nail pullers, utility knives,
tape measures, and levels. You'll need a variety of tools iust to be able
to get into some areas of inspection. For example, you'll typically need a
few different types of prying tools to get into scuttle holes and access
panels to inspect the attic, crawl space, or dirt basement. You never know
if the access panels are going to be nailed shut, screwed tight, glued, or
open to the public. As in the Scouts, it pays to be
prepared.
Some
tools you can make yourself. For example, I fashioned a sharp-pointed awl
from an old screwdriver whose head was worn down. (You'll need an awl to
check for wood rot in siding, trim, and floor joists.) I've also rigged up
a water-pressure gauge for testing water pressure at an outside hose bib
(see p. 234) and a thermostat bypass for checking a furnace in summertime
(see p. 184).
Inspecting a house can be dangerous work. Of paramount importance,
take care of your eyes. Sometimes you'll be looking directly overhead and
debris will fall directly into your face as an access panel breaks free.
Another danger zone is when you open a service panel or subpanel. You
never know what is going to happen when you pull the lid off. If a spark
hits your eye, you could be blinded for life. The bottom line: Wear safety
glasses. Inspecting a house can also be dirty work, so make sure you have
a pair of coveralls on hand for when you're scurrying around a crawl space
or dirt basement.
Because a
good deal of the inspector's work is in basements, attics, and other dark
and dreary spaces, it's important to have a reliable source of lighting.
Some inspectors carry a trouble light and extension cord with them
throughout the house, but that can be a real inconvenience. It's much
easier to use battery-operated lights. A common method is to use a
flashlight (attached to a metal ring on your belt to keep it by your
side). Another popular choice is a headlamp, which straps to your forehead
and frees up both hands as you do the inspection. Low-cost headlamps are
available at hardware stores but look for high-quality lamps in specialty
inspection catalogs, diving stores, and stores that sell cave lights. My
favorite form of lighting for inspections is a high-intensity diving
light. Although diving lights are relatively expensive (about $80 for the
larger light shown in the photo above), once you start using them, nothing
else will do.
Some
people use ladders to inspect the roof, others prefer binoculars. Always
check with your insurance company before using long extension ladders-some
companies may prohibit you from using them. To save money on ladders, you
may be tempted to use metal ones-they are light and less expensive than
other types, and perhaps you already own one. But don't use them for
outside inspections! Using metal ladders outside is dangerous: You never
know when a bare wire or a hot siding nail is going to brush against a
ladder. When outside, always use nonconductive ladders, such as fiberglass
or wood.
Extension
ladders have a tendency to "kick out," which means that the bottom of the
ladder slips away from the building. To prevent this, make sure your
ladder has swivel feet that can be stuck into the ground for better
stability. At the other end, consider using a stabilizer bar and wrap some
toweling or other protective padding over the ends to prevent the ladder
from marring the wall or roof.
Whether
or not your insurance agency allows you to climb ladders to get to the
roof, you'll need a pair of binoculars to inspect the shingles, flashing,
and chimney. I recommend you buy a pair with at least 10 x 50
magnification (they should cost about $50).
Electrical testing tools
Inspecting the electrical system is a critical part of the home
inspector's job, and it's important that you have the right tools for this
work. You'll need a high-quality multimeter to make continuity, current,
and voltage checks. I carry two models with me: Fluke model 25 and Fluke
model 30.
Model 25
(see photo above) is autoranging, which means that you don't have to know
the voltage before you measure it and you don't have to switch the meter
to the right scale. Simply put the probes on the testing points. It has a
continuity tester built in to test light bulbs and water-heater elements
around your own home. On inspection jobs, I use this multi meter to verify
the voltage amount, to verify that there is no voltage from the panel to
either the ground or the neutral bus in the main panel, and to check that
metal water lines and ductwork are not electrically hot before I handle
them.
Model 30
(see the photo at right) is a clamp-on meter that measures how much
current is flowing in a wire so you don't have to touch the wire. Just
hook the fingerlike probes around the wire, and the meter will measure the
electromagnetic flux that emanates from the wire. I use this tool to
verify that there is no current on the ground wires.
You'll
need a plug-in circuit analyzer to check if a receptacle is wired properly
and to test ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Some inspectors use
a simple three-bulb tester; but, although these are good for a general
check, they are not adequate for a detailed inspection. My tool of choice
is a SureTest branch circuit analyzer (see the photos below). Besides
standard wire checks and GFCI testing, the SureTest looks for a "bootleg"
ground, where the installer has jumped a wire from the neutral to the
ground in an attempt to fool the tester into thinking the receptacle is
grounded (the three-bulb tester does not pick this up, but the SureTest
indicates "false ground"). The SureTest can also be used to test for high
or low voltage in a circuit and voltage drops in 15- and 20-amp
circuits.
Specialty tools
Aside
from the basic tools and electrical testing tools, home inspectors may
also need some specialty tools. The type of tools you'll need depend on
the type of construction where you work. For example, if there's a lot of
synthetic stucco siding in your area, you may want to invest in a "wet
wall detector" (you may also need to get trained and certified for
specific inspections).  This tool is expensive-as are other specialty tools
like the carbon monoxide sniffer and gas sniffer that you will need to
test for gas leaks (see chapter 9), but this is what separates the pros
from the amateurs. Another specialty tool, the draft checker (made by
draft-rite), has a probe that inserts into a hole in a furnace flue and
can measure the furnace draft, including downdrafts.
An
enterprising inspector will identify areas of inspection that others
haven't found or recognized yet, acquire the right tool and/or knowledge,
and make a significant amount of money before the rest of the pack catches
up. But there are risks involved with this approach: Sometimes things
don't turn out quite the way you predicted-asbestos testing in home
inspection is one example that comes to mind.
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